Messy Color™ Cotton Candy Ltd Run

511901 - Sold Out

Cotton Candy Ltd Run (511901)<br />A milky pink moonstone.

A milky pink moonstone.




"To get the beautiful pale pink milky, moonstone color, I form the rounds in a neutral flame and let them cool a bit before striking. Because this glass melts fast and clear [like white], it’s really difficult to figure out how long to strike them. By the time, they’ve taken on a yellow glow, they’re most likely a puddle underneath my torch. Instead I strike the bead and pay attention to my turning mandrel more than the bead. As soon as the mandrel on both sides of the bead begins to glow, I move the bead  out of the flame, let it cool slightly, and check results which take a few seconds to show up. If I want a milkier bead, I repeat the process until I’m a satisfied customer." – Gloria Sevey

Click here for other interesting Cotton Candy Ltd Run discoveries.

 
Messy Cotton Candy
Jolene Wolfe

CiM Tester Feedback

  • Cotton Candy was engineered in response to requests for a pink version of 511806 Cirrus.
  • Cotton Candy has a tendency to devit.
"Just like Cirrus and Halong Bay, Cotton Candy does tend to devitrify in a handmix if it gets cool and then reheats. However, it's only a minor drawback, because as long as I reheat to glowing, the devit disappears and a glossy surface is back." – Dana George

Join Trudi Doherty's FB group Lampwork Colour Resource Sharing Information for a catalogue of color study.
Claudia Eidenbenz’s "Vetrothek" (glass library) is a great resource for color comparisons.
See Kay Powell’s frit testing samples.
Browse Serena Thomas’ color gallery.
Check out Miriam Steger’s CiM color charts.
Consult Jolene Wolfe's glass testing resource page.


"After making this many beads I find it to be a bit easier to strike than Cirrus. On really small beads I need to do the 'look at the mandrel' drill but on larger beads I can strike to the beginning of the orange glow on the bead and then remove and wait. I can get it more milky with subsequent strikes."
Gloria Sevey
"If you get it very hot, you lose the cloudy effect, and you need to really let it cool and then strike it. Gentle reheating at the tip of the flame or just touching the underside edge of the flame. . . . It requires some attention to get the moonstone effect in this glass, but some bead shapes and types lend themselves to it better than others." Read more at DragonJools blog.
Dwyn Tomlinson
"Notice, over the white on the left, it adds almost no colour." Read more at DragonJools blog.
Dwyn Tomlinson
"To get the beautiful pale pink milky, moonstone color, I form the rounds in a neutral flame and let them cool a bit before striking. Because this glass melts fast and clear [like white], it’s really difficult to figure out how long to strike them. By the time, they’ve taken on a yellow glow, they’re most likely a puddle underneath my torch. Instead I strike the bead and pay attention to my turning mandrel more than the bead. As soon as the mandrel on both sides of the bead begins to glow, I move the bead  out of the flame, let it cool slightly, and check results which take a few seconds to show up. If I want a milkier bead, I repeat the process until I’m a satisfied customer."
Gloria Sevey
"Cotton Candy and DH Aurae Shards. The Aurae shards seemed to reduce to a more pinky metallic than normal using the Cotton Candy as the base glass." See more at Darlene's blog.
Darlene Collette
"I had no trouble coaxing out the moonstone effect by simply allowing them to cool to the point of 'no glow' and then re-introducing them to the flame. I allowed them to get a soft glow going, removed them, and voila! Moonstone effect. Beautiful. I really loved the ease of mixing; in this strand it has been hand mixed with Gelly's Sty, Thai Orchid, and Heffalump."
Dana George